Bread recipes look like lists of quantities. Behind them sits a system that professional bakers use to describe, compare and scale formulas, and understanding it turns bread from following instructions into something you can reason about.
In baker’s percentage, flour is always one hundred per cent, and every other ingredient is expressed as a percentage of the flour weight. Not of the total, of the flour.
So a formula might read: flour 100%, water 70%, salt 2%, yeast 1%. With a kilogram of flour that means seven hundred grams of water, twenty grams of salt and ten grams of yeast. The percentages add up to more than a hundred, which confuses people initially and is entirely correct.
The system only works with weight. Percentages of volume are meaningless, since flour and water occupy space differently, and the whole point is a consistent relationship between ingredients.
This is the practical reason bread baking pushed home cooks toward scales earlier than other baking did. Kitchen scales reading in single grams, of the kind in the Escali range, cover everything except the smallest yeast quantities, where a precision scale reading to a tenth of a gram is worth having.
Hydration, the water percentage, is the number that defines a dough. Around sixty per cent gives a stiff dough that is easy to shape and produces a tight crumb. Seventy per cent is a standard artisan loaf. Eighty per cent and above gives an open, irregular crumb and a dough that is genuinely difficult to handle.
Salt sits reliably around two per cent. Below that the bread tastes flat and ferments too fast; above it the yeast is inhibited.
Commercial yeast ranges from around half a per cent for a slow ferment to two per cent for a quick one.
To convert an existing recipe, divide every ingredient weight by the flour weight and multiply by a hundred. A recipe with five hundred grams flour and three hundred and fifty grams water is seventy per cent hydration.
To build a recipe, pick the flour weight first, then apply the percentages. This is how bakers scale from a single loaf to a hundred without recalculating anything.
Preferments and sourdough starters contain both flour and water, and both have to be counted in the totals for the percentages to mean anything. This trips up nearly everyone at first.
The convention is to calculate total flour and total water including whatever is in the starter, which gives the true hydration of the finished dough rather than of the flour added at mixing.